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Are Status Bags Over?

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Lisa Armstrong is one of our favorite British fashion critics. She’s relentlessly observant, quite funny, and never afraid of calling women out on their bad habits.

Today in the London Times, she has a piece on the death of the status bag.

It’s a little hard to plow through because it pulls many references from British politicians, but the message is clear:

Once a bag is so popular, everyone knows how much it costs, where it comes from, who else carries it, and if it’s fake. This broad knowledge ruins any claims that bag has on your personal style, reverting instead to a symbol of wealth, class, and conformity. That may work in the political realm, but it’s constantly under combat in the style sphere, and now comes the big idea:

Lisa predicts that soon, all status bags will go from tempting to tacky.

Which leaves us with questions like…

What will women carry instead? A wave of unique vintage bags, or a trend of cheaper, mass market totes that start almost as a joke?

How do you feel when you carry your status bag? Has that feeling changed since you got it?

Will some bags, like a Birkin, truly be timeless?

Your turn.

Comments

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posted by ashleydc

Jun 06, 2007 12:37PM

I guess it depends on what kind of status bag- like the Murakami LVs seem really dated to me, but something like a Birkin is very classic and always chic.

I carry a bright yellow Marc Jacobs Venetia- it gets noticed more for the color than the label and I love it because the shape and style are classical.

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posted by Jessica

Jun 06, 2007 12:47PM

I certainly hope so. It is redundant and boring to see these pieces carried by everyone and then completely knocked off on the streets. I want the smaller companies to be showcased and those doing something interesting.

forget the logo.

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posted by justine

Jun 06, 2007 1:07PM

i think logo stamp bags are already tacky. id rather have a damier LV bag than one with LVs all over it. As for the birkin... any bag requiring a waitlist will always be classic and evoke status. I'd rather see more personal style though... its more fun.

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posted by MH

Jun 06, 2007 1:13PM

I think there will always be moments when a new bag is particularly popular. But when you look at something like the huge resurgence Goyard is having right now, you see a transition towards what she's talking about. Everyone knows how expensive they are, but at the same time their appeal is their classic shape and the colors and designs you can personalize with. It's not like they all come with the same 2 lb. lock or long decorative tassel. There is of course the argument that Goyard is making a huge mistake by allowing what should be their classic status bag to become their trendy item, but perhaps its just the beginning of a larger shift.

Also, if the label gets less important, people may being to gravitate towards brands that are classically well-made but not trendy a la veteran leathergoods producers like Tods, which you've already noted is trying to make its way into the consumer consciousness at what may be exactly the right moment.

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posted by hyp

Jun 06, 2007 1:15PM

ad pages and fashion editorial transform bags into it bags...anyway if the it bag is an isnt how will designers make their money?

and speaking of bags i walked into macys (dont judge) not realizing there is now an lv boutique (am i that old that i can recall the lv counter?) made me wonder why they dont carry other luxury handbags...

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posted by Natalie

Jun 06, 2007 1:17PM

I agree with AshleyDC. Something like a Birkin, a classic Chanel bag, or even the Balenciaga Motorcycle Le Dix bag (one that I think will last) will never go out of style. They're versatile and always look fresh.

Something as tacky and pop-culture-y like an LV Murakami or Cherry Blossom, on the other hand...

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posted by spg

Jun 06, 2007 1:20PM

Status bags make fashion stressful if you're low on funds. Sure, it's fun to be creative and find something unique, but secretly, everyone just wishes they could afford the status bag.

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posted by spg

Jun 06, 2007 1:35PM

and yes, I think a Birkin or a classic Chanel is timeless, but that feels like a separate issue than the "Status bag," like the oversized Marc Jacobs, Chloe and Miu Miu bags of right now. It just feels like a lot of pressure to carry one of those bags, when they cost a pretty penny and we all know it's only a matter of time before something else becomes the staus bag of the moment. A Chanel or Birkin seem to be much better investments even though they're not quite as lust-worthy in terms of the trends.

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posted by michope

Jun 06, 2007 1:37PM

i think status bags have always been more popular among the wealthy (or wannabe wealthy) than the fashionistas...so they may be making their exit out of the village, but im sure theyll stay alive on the UES

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posted by guest

Jun 06, 2007 1:47PM

i personally think that Chloe and Marc jacobs and Miu Miu et.al can be super stylish and classic depending on how you wear them. I love seeing a woman carry a few seasons old bag...and just because you own an it bag does not mean you are not creative or not a "fashionista" All trends do not start in the Village

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posted by chloe

Jun 06, 2007 1:53PM

i agree with what most people have said...but even chanel is becoming an it bag brand..i have seen so many girls with the quilted bag and maybe they aren't all real but that's not even the point..seeing chanel everywhere makes me not even want to get one bc it looks like what everyone else has even if i get a different style...

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posted by guest

Jun 06, 2007 2:03PM

i dont think status bags will go anywhere. i would agree with the above that monogram LV, Gucci, any of that is rather tacky, conformist, and 15 years ago (and for me, i just assume they are all knock-offs at this point) but as unique as your own personal style may be, i always feel great throwing my big leather bag over my shoulder. i think there's a certain sense of empowerment that comes with it.

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posted by guest

Jun 06, 2007 2:05PM

well, let's take those balenciaga motorcycle bags for instance. just now, sitting at lunch, i saw at least ten different kinds, all of which im sure were fake, in ridiculous sizes (from the minute to the gargantuan, which could easily house a small person) and outrageous colors. clearly, this once-status bag has just gone off the deep end of tacky.

but if we can take certain status bags and make them uniquely our own (ex. carrying the chanel 2.55 cross wise like a messenger bag or the birkin in a great bold color), then what does the status matter?

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posted by leia

Jun 06, 2007 2:08PM

Ashleydc- I have that same MJ bag! I love it too, I get stopped all the time when I carry it!
I personally think that the knock-off companies (by that I mean the ones who copy, not counterfeit) are what will kill the status bag. As soon as a hot bag comes out, cheap imitations flood the market. I can't personally understand why anyone would ever by a Fendi Spy bag when XXI has them knocked off. Regardless of the huge quality difference, it loses it's exclusivity.......
Whenever I buy a high priced bag, I avoid the ones that get lots of editorial press or are carried by celebs. If I spend serious money on a bag, I want to carry it for a few years and not feel like a laggard. Sort of like the Yellow Venetia, I got it because I adored the color and could see myself carrying it in 5 years too.....

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posted by designage

Jun 06, 2007 2:16PM

let us take a moment to recall the (atrocious) fendi baguette...

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posted by guest

Jun 06, 2007 2:23PM

i think there are so many status it bags out there that it really is possible to have you a status bag that matches personal style. women spend money on clothes and shoes. they will always spend money on bags as well. I think the concept of THE IT BAG has already gone out. There hasn't been a spy or a paddington in at least two seasons, and the dior guacho or fendi B bag never took off like they were believed too. But there are an array of bags now out each season that still cost a fortune but give women enough of a choice to express her personal style.

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posted by guest

Jun 06, 2007 2:26PM

yep, i agree 100 percent with leia. find a bag that you love, because you acutally love it and not because wintour told you to or someone gifted it to nicole richie and also try to find one that wont invade china town in 2 months and then its a good buy. i carry my edith bag everywhere still and i love it even though i'm sure there are knockoffs floating around

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posted by guest

Jun 06, 2007 2:28PM

oh, one more thing, a bag does not an outfit make...if you see a girl in scuffed up pointy toed steve maddens carrying "balenciaga" you can spot the tackiness from a mile away versus someone who actually identifies with the brand.

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posted by Mary-Lou

Jun 06, 2007 3:25PM

Net-A-Porter Sale. Run, hurry!

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posted by Stephanie

Jun 06, 2007 3:48PM

Totally agree- most bags are played out a month or two after they're in the stores. There is no need to get into massive credit card debt, just to show all the other sheep that you too read Elle, or Vogue, and have the kind of fabulous life that can accomodate a $2000 handbag purchase.

The simple fact is that most of us don't have that life. And while it's more than ok to try to keep a bit of glamour in one's daily existence, we should do it to make ourselves happy- not to keep up with the Joneses. Besides, an awesome, obscure bag makes people even more jealous.

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posted by Kristen

Jun 06, 2007 5:54PM

I'm starting to feel like status bags are just a cynical attempt by designers to make more money without producing anything of substance, sort of like how there's now a "pre-fall" season (because plain old fall is just so far away). Granted, some bags are classic and well made (or just appeal to a girl's senses), and are then worth the hefty price tag. But I think a lot of the bags out there are so awful--it's like the designer is mocking anyone dumb enough to spend that much on them.

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posted by Geneva

Jun 06, 2007 9:13PM

Totally. As for me, I just can't afford to spend $2000 on a bag right now, sorry to say. I do have a gorgeous red-orange patent leather hobo from a couple of years ago. It's Kate Spade -- which I know is sort of uncool, but it's not super Spade-y looking, since it's a slouchier shape-- and it's very me, since I trend a bit preppy. I've never seen anyone else with it, and I get complements on it all the time. It's unique, which makes me happy.

if I did have the money, I'd go to Hermes and get a red Birkin, which is something I'd carry for the rest of my life. If it's not super ultra classic, I hate the idea of carrying a bag every other girl has. This is why I shop vintage for evening bags -- wish vintage was a better option for day bags, but I haven't had much luck.

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posted by andrea

Jun 06, 2007 10:34PM

Wearing a bag just because it's the bag of the moment tells observers of your personal style that you do't have any personal style. Sort of like all these celebrities wearing all the stuff of the moment because their stylists tell them to. I never feel comfortable with an it bag because it makes me feel like i have no mind of my own. Right now and since last fall, i am using a large Yohji Yamamoto doctor's bag with a messenger strap that I wear as a messenger bag. So many people, men and women, have asked me about my bag. It's beautiful, well made, and timeless. It will always look good. It doesn't look like I am trying to tell people that "I belong to the tribe becuase I spent $1000 or $1800 on my bag". I just look like me, wearing something that is an extension of my esthetic.

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posted by biba

Jun 07, 2007 11:14AM

birkins are classic. lv murakami edition speedy bags are not classic.

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posted by guest

Jun 07, 2007 1:36PM

Status bags are just indicators of status anxiety had by a lot of the middle class in America and abroad. The gap between the wealthy and the poor is growing, and socio-economic conditions are becoming harder and harder for the middle class to keep its place, well, in the middle. So subconsciously the middle class is striving to say "Look! Look! I'm not poor! I'm ok!" by imitating the wealthy, which is where the status bag came from. Its aspiration, whether by maxing out your credit card to buy one or by getting a knock-off so you can have the look and suggest that you're upwardly mobile.

Same thing happened in the 80s when status was huge, Wall Street profits were huge (like now) and it was all about big money, big designers, big hair, big talking and big deals. "I got mine now you get yours" was the ethos and the fashion matched.

Can't wait for the early 90s revival with the backlash against all things obviously designer/status driven/corporate. Although hopefully this revival won't be just about the look, and it will signal changing attitudes about what is and isn't priority.

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posted by guest

Mar 26, 2009 12:49AM

Guest 1:36PM

First of all, I completely and utterly agree with your comment and share your hope that the trend-loop backlash doesn't manifest in the psuedo-anti-corporate. (But seriously "Wall Street profits were huge (like now)"?) Secondly, you're an excellent writer.

Everyone has been mentioning the Chanel Classic Flap and the Hermes Birkin, but what about Judith Leiber clutches? That's the sort of item that is not only timeless but it can also be an heirloom. Another bag that I predict will become an incredible classic is the Alexander McQueen Medium Novak. The design details, shape, and size are impeccable. It's both classic and futuristic, fussy and edgy. (Right now I'm carrying a practically logo-free, patent red, top handled Prada bowler with gunmetal hardware.)

I don't see this bag achieving classic status (since I doubt it will become explosively popular enough to be considered "resilient), but it is less boring than Valextra with the same level of quality:
http://www.nottinghilldesign.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_26&products_id=150&l1=collections&l2=

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posted by guest

Apr 08, 2009 7:16PM

Bravo comment 1:36 PM. You hit the nail on the head.

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